Roman Holiday
in search of a great meal in the Eternal City
After spending 3 days wandering its cobblestone streets, visiting centuries-old monuments and eating some incredible food, I can say Rome is every bit as magical as I remembered. Many years ago (2008 to be exact), my wife and I visited Italy while backpacking through Europe on the last leg of our 5-week trip. It stood out as highlight and we’ve dreamt of coming back ever since. Not least because our daughter’s three favourite food groups are pizza, pasta and gelato. I don’t know if I’d recommend visiting during the intense heatwave we experienced in July (bring a water bottle and fan!) but if the Eternal City is on your bucket list, book the ticket!
This recap will primarily cover where we stayed and what we ate on our 3 days in Rome. I won’t dwell on the historical sites because my guess is if you’re planning a visit, you already know what you want to see. I will, however, place a heavy emphasis on the food since that’s my main interest and the part I found to be most overwhelming. There are A LOT of places to eat in Rome and the last thing you want to do is have a bad meal. I found myself falling into a couple of overhyped, IG-popular traps and I don’t want that to be the case for you.
I’ve also saved each place mentioned in this post on this Google Map so you can easily access and see their actual locations.
Unsolicited Advice Before You Go
If you plan on coming to Rome or Italy in general during the peak summer travel season of June to August, you should expect extreme heat and large crowds. It was full sun and at least 38C every day we were there. I strongly encourage you to walk on the shady side of the street whenever possible and bring a few things to make your stay more enjoyable.
Water Bottle: We brought a 1 litre steel water bottle with us on our trip and it was probably the single best decision. You can refill your bottle at one of the hundreds of nasoni (public water fountains) found all over the city for free. Of course, you can buy bottled water all over the place or just refill a plastic bottle as well. I prefer steel because it keeps the water cold and having a loop around the lid makes it easier to carry.
Portable Fan: Another excellent decision we made was to bring a small, rechargeable fan. I wish I brought more than one! We used it daily and it was a lifesaver for our 7-year old who thought it would be fun to climb every single wall, bench and fountain she saw in addition to walking 15k steps per day! Look for a fan with a strong fan and rechargeable battery that lasts long. That way you don’t need to look for new batteries and can just recharge it overnight in your hotel room.
Portable Charger: There’s a strong chance you’ll be using your phone all day. Google maps, photos, videos, Uber, posting pics of your gelato on IG, reading Uncle Ronny’s latest Substack post. If that’s you, then I suggest you carry a portable charger for your phone. Especially if you’re posting to social media - it kills your battery like nothing else. I found my phone battery dying by mid day, everyday. I don’t remember what brand mine is but it’s around the same size as my iPhone 16 so it’s not overly bulky. I also used it a couple of times to charge the fan.
Electrolytes: I always pack sticks of LMNT electrolytes with me. They’re small, individually-packaged, convenient, taste good, zero-sugar and will help you stay hydrated in the extreme heat.
Beware of Pickpockets: This goes without saying but stay vigilant and beware of pickpockets. Keep your bags, phones and wallets on your person at all times. I don’t want to fear-monger but they usually work in teams with spotters and before you know it, your valuables are gone. I hate to admit it but it’s happened to us on more than one occasion.
Hotel Castellino Roma
If location is your top priority (and I think it should be in Rome), you really can’t get much better than this. We chose Hotel Castellino because it’s smack dab in the centre of Rome and on a well-lit, major street, which means you don’t have to lug your suitcases down any cobblestones or up any staircases. Plus, it’s a bit safer at night. It was also reasonably priced compared to similar options and had availability, which is an important caveat considering I booked it only 2 days before arriving during peak summer travel season. I’m sure if you book further in advance and not during July the prices will be better and you will have more hotel options in general.
Situated just steps from Piazza Venezia, it put nearly every major attraction within walking distance. The Trevi Fountain is about a 7-minute walk away, the Pantheon roughly 10 minutes, and the Roman Forum, Colosseum and Capitoline Hill can all be reached in 10-15 minutes on foot. The Vatican and Castel Sant’Angelo is a 30 to 35-minute walk if you’re looking to get your steps in. We walked on the way there but ended up ordering a taxi through the Uber app to get back to the hotel because the heat was too intense for our daughter.
The hotel itself is basic but clean. We wanted to spend as little time at the hotel as possible so additional amenities like a gym or spa weren’t a top priority at all. The room and ensuite bathroom were surprisingly spacious by European standards, the bed was comfortable and staff members were friendly and helpful. If you arrive before check-in, you can ask the front desk to store your bags until your room is ready. There’s a complimentary Nespresso machine and water in the lobby by the elevator, which was very much appreciated.
They also have a rooftop terrace and jacuzzi area, but it was closed because of the extreme July heatwave.
If you book here, I’d highly recommend requesting a room overlooking the interior courtyard if possible. The surrounding streets are lively from early morning until late at night, and the courtyard rooms are much quieter.
The hotel does offer breakfast for an additional charge but we chose to head out and explore the city instead.
My only complaint was the WiFi signal in the room was very weak and constantly disconnected. Aside from that, I would stay here again.
WHERE TO AVOID: Unless you absolutely have to, I would avoid staying around the outskirts of Rome or near the Termini train station. The neighbourhood surrounding Termini is a bit sketchy at night and not somewhere I’d recommend going for an evening stroll. We did it back in 2008 and did not enjoy it.
You might find some better hotel prices around the outskirts of the city centre but the savings are not worth the extra distance IMO. There is A LOT to see in Rome. The further out you are, the more time you’ll take to get where you want to go. Taxis can be very expensive and wait times to catch a cab or Uber can be longer than you expect. Also, some neighbourhoods, like Monti, have steep hills that can make even a short walk more difficult.
Instead, try to find something in one of the central neighbourhoods. Not only will you be closer to the historical sites but it will also make it easier to head back to your hotel mid-day if you want to put away any souvenirs or have a shower before dinner.
Coffee
Caveat: I drink my coffee black. In Italy, it was exclusively ristretto, espresso and doppio espresso. No latte. No cappuccino. No macchiato. No americano. No vanilla, mocha, frappuccino, caramelluccino. No. No. No. If you like those sorts of drinks, I’m happy for you. For me, that ain’t coffee. It’s milk with coffee flavour.
All that to say, the espresso served in Italian bars (which are what you would commonly call a cafe or coffee shop in North America) was generally similar. Think dark roasts, over extracted, bitter, burn-your-tongue hot and notes of cigarette ash. Unless, of course, you go to a specialty or third-wave coffee shop, where you can usually get single-origin roasts prepared with a touch more sophistication and temperature control.
Unfortunately, due to a very crammed sight-seeing schedule, I didn’t have a chance to seek out any specialty coffee shops and found myself slinging back shots of molten lava instead.
The funny thing is, I still loved it.
Bar San Marcello (Near Trevi)
Bar San Marcello is a 5-minute walk around the corner from Hotel Castellino on a quiet alleyway near Trevi Fountain. No Instagram hype, no lines, no crowds of tourists. I’d recommend it if you’re like us and just want a quick coffee or pastry so you can spend more time exploring the city instead of sitting down for a large breakfast.
The espresso is exactly what you’d expect in Italy - dark, over-roasted, robust, intense, and piping hot. If you order milk-based drinks like a cappuccino, the flavour will be more mellow. The real star here (and Rome in general) was the maritozzo - a soft, sweet bun filled with fresh whipped cream. It’s one of Rome’s signature pastries. It looks simple and underwhelming on the outside, but the pastry is wonderfully flavourful, with a slightly crisp exterior, fluffy centre and not overly sweet. The whipped cream is light as a cloud. It goes great with a cup of Italian-style espresso, which leans heavily on the bitter side - even for me. I don’t know if I’d start my mornings with a maritozzo everyday, but it’s definitely worth trying at least once while in Rome.
We also tried their pistachio croissant. It was generously filled with a sweet pistachio cream but the pastry itself was a bit dry and stale. I wouldn’t recommend it.
Antico Caffè del Brasile (Monti)
While walking through the Monti neighbourhood, we stopped at Antico Caffè del Brasile. I’ve followed Elizabeth Minchilli on TikTok for years and this is one of her local spots so I had to check it out.
It’s another no-frills, classic Roman coffee bar with locals constantly flowing in and out. The espresso is similar to San Marcelo. Piping hot, bold and a little bitter but reasonably priced. They also have a large selection of pastries and prepared foods. It’s a good place to make a quick pit stop if you’re in Monti. I think there’s a gelato shop next door if the kids need something to cool down.
Other Bakeries and Quick Bites:
I didn’t get around to either of these bakeries but they came HIGHLY recommended by friends. If you go or have been, I would love to know your thoughts in the comments.
Where We Ate
Night 1: Trattoria Da Enzo (Trastevere)
Located in the very charming and picturesque Trastevere neighbourhood, Da Enzo serves up traditional Roman cuisine. No reservations, walk-ins only and ALWAYS a long line. We arrived around 6:45pm, just 15 minutes after they opened, and ended up waiting for around 1 hour. It was our first night, we were riding the adrenaline high of being back in Rome and honestly didn’t mind waiting at all.
Pro tip: Walk inside to the cash register and order a beverage while you wait. I got an Aperol Spritz for my wife, a cold beer for myself and we hung out with everyone else until a table was free. It was actually pretty nice. Trastevere is a beautiful pocket of Rome.
Da Enzo has a tiny indoor dining room and some tables that flow out onto the street in front. The place looks straight out of a scene from Eat, Pray, Love. It’s charming and the food is very good but it does seem as though the tourists have taken over. At least, that’s what it felt like while we were there. It’s not necessarily a bad thing, but I don’t think you should come here expecting a “hidden gem”, local or neighbourhood joint. Nevertheless, I would recommend it and my wife said it was her favourite meal in Rome.
We Ordered:
(from left to right)
Fiore di Zucca. Zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies, battered and deep-fried. Unfortunately, these were a miss for me. The cheese was a bit rubbery and the batter a bit too heavy for my liking.
Rigatoni al Pomodoro. This was a special request for our daughter and I was appreciative that they made the exception. They tossed rigatoni in some of the the sugo they use for their polpette (meatballs). The sauce was simple, flavourful, well seasoned and the pasta was cooked al dente.
Sautéed Cavolo Nero with chile and garlic. I love any kind of wilted green and this was no exception. One thing to keep in mind is most Italians overcook their vegetables. The kale was very, very soft. If you like something with a bit more texture, you will not like this. Otherwise, it’s a nice accompaniment if you plan on ordering any Secondi (or more protein-forward dishes).
Rigatoni al Sugo di Coda. My favourite dish of the night! Rigatoni tossed in a rich and deeply flavourful ox tail ragù. You can’t see it but there’s a braised ox tail hiding under the cheese. The part I found most interesting was they finished the dish with a dusting of cacao powder. Delicious and highly recommend!
Abbacchio alla Scottadito (grilled lamb ribs). Very simply seasoned, super mellow flavour profile, not gamey, and beautifully crispy ribbons of fat along the bone. Lamb chops are one of my favourite things in the world and I really enjoyed these.
Da Enzo is famous for their Tiramisu (below). It comes in a small glass with a generous dusting of cacao overtop. I would say it’s a good Tiramisu and a nice end to the meal but maybe a bit overhyped.
What Others Recommended
If you don’t want to wait for a table at Da Enzo but maybe want to eat somewhere in Trastevere, these are some other options that were recommended to me.
Supplì - Grab-and-go, no seating.
Night 2: Pommidoro dal 1890 (San Lorenzo)
Pommidoro is a family-run trattoria that’s been serving classic Roman and cucina povera dishes since 1890. It’s where Pier Paolo Pasolini famously had his last meal before he was murdered. More recently, it’s witnessed another large boom in fame after being heralded by Stanley Tucci as having his favourite carbonara in town. They now proudly display his books on their front desk. Can you blame them?
Inside, the place feels feels like you’ve stepped back in time. The staff is warm and welcoming, the atmosphere is effortlessly stylish in that very Italian way (vintage posters, newspaper clippings, mother of pearl table cloths) and classic Roman dishes fill the menu. The service is friendly, fun and unpretentious, but a little clumsy. Our server forgot to bring cutlery - twice. He brought out some type of scallopini instead of the trippa we ordered. At one point another server dropped a couple glasses while clearing a table. And spilled a bottle of red wine on another table by accident. In his defence, it was very late at night by this point and he was visibly exhausted.
Even though this place is very popular with tourists, it’s still a go-to for locals. They also take reservations and have a few indoor dining areas with a weak, but functioning AC. Important consideration if visiting during the summer and with kids. My advice is to book ahead and anticipate taking a taxi to get there. It’s located in the San Lorenzo neighbourhood, which is a bit far out from the city centre and not exactly the most charming area to walk through.
We Ordered:
(from left to right)
Gnocchi al Sugo di Castrato. Pillowy potato gnocchi served in a rich and delicious mutton ragù with tender, fall-off-the-bone meat. I loved this and it was my favourite dish of the night! Highly recommend!
Carbonara. Don’t come for me but I think carbonara in general is overhyped and especially so in Rome. However, if you like it then you will enjoy this one. The sauce is creamy, perfectly emulsified, not overly cheesy and with a good amount of guanciale. The spaghetti is cooked al dente.
Trippa alla Romana. I love tripe and I loved this. If you don’t like tripe, don’t order it. It’s slow-cooked until tender in a tomato sauce with mint and topped with a generous amount of Pecorino Romano. This is a staple dish of Rome’s cuccina povera and it didn’t disappoint.
Bistecca. Grilled over a wood fire and finished with a sprinkling of salt. The meat was flavourful but a little on the chewy side, which is par for the course in Italy where the steaks in general have much less marbling then in North America. It was just OK and not something I’d order again.
Sautéed Broccoletti (not pictured): Similar to the cavolo nero from Da Enzo, the tender stem broccoli here is blanched until very soft then sautéed in olive oil and the faintest hint of garlic. It’s good, don’t get me wrong, but I would have enjoyed it a bit more if it wasn’t so mushy.
What Others Recommended
If Pommidoro is booked, I’d also consider:
Il Grottino a Testaccio - a recommendation from my friend Ruben Bondì
Night 3: Al Pompiere (Jewish Ghetto)
Located in Rome’s historically significant Jewish Ghetto, Al Pompiere is a family-run restaurant popular with both locals and tourists. It’s another Elizabeth Minchilli recommendation so I was very eager to eat here.
I called the restaurant at 6:45pm and asked if they had any room for 3. The gentleman on the phone, who I later found out was the owner, said they were fully booked and only had room around 11pm. I said, unfortunately that’s too late, even for my night-owl daughter. The moment he heard we were coming with our child he said he could give us a table at 7pm. Either I had just unlocked a secret code to securing a table in Italy or he was just very nice and accommodating. Either way, I appreciated it.
The restaurant is very big inside. Multiple dining rooms and lots of tables but it feels very inviting and warm. The staff was very welcoming and attentive and the owners were there making sure everyone was being taken care of. Just like Pommidoro, there’s no pretentiousness here. It’s hospitality for the sake of being hospitable. Also like Pommidoro, they have a very weak but functioning AC.
After dinner, spend some time wandering the surrounding streets. The Jewish Ghetto is one of Rome’s most fascinating neighbourhoods. You can marvel at the ancient ruins without the crowds and it’s especially charming after sunset.
We Ordered:
(from left to right)
Fritto Misto Vegetale. An assortment of fried vegetables, cheese and even apple! The batter was incredibly light and crispy and the vegetables were tender with just the right amount of bite. I loved every bite of this! Recommend!
Taglioni al Pommodoro. Another special request for the kiddo and it ended up being one of my favourite dishes. Perfectly cooked fresh taglioni in an incredibly simple tomato sauce topped with grated Parmigiano Reggiano. I ate the leftovers on the train to Salerno the next day and found myself in a momentary state of bliss. Recommend!
Carciofo alla Giudia. Crispy on the outside, tender in the middle, these Jewish-style fried artichokes are a must try in Rome. They’re simple, flavourful, very lightly seasoned with salt and deliver a delicious crunch.
Penne all’Arrabbiata. Penne tossed in a very light tomato sauce with olives, parsley and chile. This was just OK in my opinion. It fell a bit flat and I was hoping for a bigger punch of flavour. It wasn’t spicy until the very last bite when I got the chile pepper. Then my mouth was on fire!
Bistecca. Similar to Pommidoro, the steak was flavourful but a bit chewy and overcooked. In their defence, it’s difficult to cook a very thin steak to a medium centre. I regret not ordering the grilled lamb chops.
Taglioni al Limone. This was a sleeper hit! Looks very unassuming but it was my favourite dish of the night. Perfectly cooked fresh taglioni tossed in a rich and creamy yet surprisingly light lemon sauce. I licked the plate clean. Highly recommend!
What Others Recommended
If you can’t get a table at Al Pompiere, I’d also consider:
Sadly, Would Not Recommend…
I think the only real let down for me was Bonci Pizzarium. If you’ve seen the Gabriele Bonci episode on the Chef’s Table pizza season then you’re definitely familiar with the fame surrounding Bonci himself and this place. I really, really wanted to love it but unfortunately, it was just OK. In their defence, it could be that I didn’t order correctly. The crust was definitely the highlight though. It was crunchy, light and airy. I was expecting more from the toppings though. Especially considering each slice was almost €10!
The wait time was also far too long (around 20 minutes for a slice) and it had nothing to do with a line up. There were only a few people ahead of us. Their expediting just needs improvement.
Also worth knowing if you plan to go, Bonci Pizzarium is quite far out from the city centre. It’s in the Trionfale neighbourhood, north west of the Vatican, which means you have to walk around the Vatican walls to get there. So even if you visit St. Peter’s you still have a 25-minute walk ahead of you. Not ideal in 40C heat and in my opinion, just not worth the distance. Especially considering the price and wait times.
One last note, in the impossible chance someone from the Bonci team reads this. Put placards in front of each style of pizza so at the very least people know the toppings. I don’t eat pork so it was a guessing game trying to figure out which slice I could choose. I ordered a slice with fresh mozzarella and basil (very safe bet) and one with mushrooms. The mushroom slice ended up having some type of sausage camouflaged amongst the funghi. I’m sure had I asked, they would have told me. But that’s yet another thing that would contribute to longer wait times.
Where to next…
This wraps up the first half of our week-long trip in Italy. The second half was spent in Positano and I’ll share a similar recap of our time in what I consider to be one of the most magical parts of Italy.
In the meantime, I would love to hear from you in the comments. Are you a seasoned traveler to Rome or a local living in the Eternal City with other food, coffee or pastry recommendations? I’m sure I missed A TON of stuff and there’s only so much ground you can cover in 3 days, but I guess that gives me all the more reason to come back!
Also, I know this is outside my typical recipe posts so I’m curious to know if you enjoyed this article.
Let me know
~ Ronny
